Edmond Dantès

When it rains, make arroz caldo

Arroz caldo is the Filipino version of a comforting chicken-and-rice porridge: rice cooked slowly with chicken, ginger, garlic, and patis (fish sauce) until the grains soften and the broth becomes thick and creamy. The name comes from Spanish, meaning “rice broth,” but the dish is unmistakably Filipino, particularly in its generous use of ginger and its assortment of savory toppings.

It is simple food, but for me the toppings are half the pleasure. I serve mine with boiled egg, chicharon (crispy pork rinds or pork cracklings), sliced green onions, plenty of toasted garlic, and a scattering of saffron. Freshly ground black pepper is optional, but since it is one of my favorite seasonings for arroz caldo, mine gets a generous amount.

My version also differs slightly from many arroz caldo recipes. I use boneless chicken breast instead of bone-in chicken, and I combine equal amounts of regular white rice and glutinous rice (sticky rice). The regular rice keeps the porridge from becoming too heavy, while the glutinous rice gives it the rich, silky body I like.

Chicken Arroz Caldo

Filipino ginger chicken-and-rice porridge with crisp chicharon, toasted garlic, egg,
and saffron


Serves 4–6


Ingredients

For the arroz caldo

For the toppings


Make the toasted garlic

Heat about 2 tablespoons of oil in a small frying pan over medium-low heat. Add 5 or 6 finely chopped garlic cloves and cook slowly, stirring often, until the garlic is crisp and golden.

Remove the garlic immediately with a slotted spoon and drain it on paper towels. Do not wait for it to become dark brown in the pan. Garlic continues to cook for a short time after it is removed from the oil, and it can go from beautifully toasted to bitter very quickly.

Keep a little of the garlic-infused oil if you like. A spoonful drizzled over the finished arroz caldo adds even more flavor.

Make the arroz caldo

Rinse the regular rice and glutinous rice together under cold running water, then drain well.

Heat 2 tablespoons of oil in a large, heavy pot over medium heat. Add the chopped onion and cook until softened. Add the garlic and ginger and cook for another minute or two, stirring frequently, until fragrant but not browned.

Add the chicken breast and cook just until the outside of the pieces is no longer raw. Pour in the patis and stir everything together for about a minute.

Add the drained rice and stir well so that the grains are coated with the chicken, aromatics, and cooking juices. Pour in the chicken broth and bring everything to a gentle boil.

Reduce the heat to low and simmer, uncovered or partially covered, stirring regularly so that the rice does not stick to the bottom of the pot.

Cook for about 30–40 minutes, or until the rice is very tender and the broth has become thick and creamy. Add water or additional chicken broth as needed while it cooks.

Arroz caldo should be creamy and spoonable rather than stiff. It also thickens considerably as it stands, so it is better to leave it slightly looser than you think you want it.

Taste and add more patis or a little salt if necessary.

Because boneless chicken breast is quite lean, keep the arroz caldo at a gentle simmer rather than a hard boil. This helps the chicken remain tender while the rice cooks.

To serve

Ladle the hot arroz caldo into large bowls.

Top each serving generously with a halved boiled egg, crushed chicharon, sliced green onions, toasted garlic, and a few saffron threads.

Finish with freshly ground black pepper if you like it. I certainly do.

Serve immediately, with calamansi or lemon wedges on the side. A squeeze of citrus just before eating cuts through the richness and brightens the whole bowl.

A Few Notes

The half regular rice and half glutinous rice combination is important to the texture of this particular version. Regular rice on its own makes a somewhat lighter porridge. Glutinous or sticky rice releases more starch and gives the arroz caldo a fuller, silkier consistency. Using them together gives you the best of both: body without making the porridge excessively sticky.

The final consistency is a matter of preference. I like mine thick enough that the egg, chicharon, green onions, garlic, and saffron sit nicely on top, but still loose enough that the arroz caldo settles naturally into the bowl. If it becomes too thick while sitting, stir in a little hot broth or water before serving.

The toppings are not merely decoration. The soft egg, crisp chicharon, fresh green onions, crunchy toasted garlic, and fragrant saffron give every spoonful a different combination of texture and flavor.

And don’t be stingy with the toasted garlic. With arroz caldo, there is almost no such thing as too much.